A Lens Baby is an unconventional lens, created by Craig Strong. The Lens Baby’s do not focus like traditional lenses, they have whats called a “Sweet Spot” which allows you to tilt the lens and focus on what you want, and everything outside of the “Sweet Spot” will be gradually blurred. If I was asked to describe the effect Lens Baby’s create I couldn’t, but this article from PopPhoto may help.

Is It Hard to Use?

Though it may take some people a matter of minutes to master this lens, it may take awhile for others. I myself don’t even think i have come close to being an expert with this lens, there are just too many possibilities to claim that.

Is It Versatile?

Ya probably the most versatile lens I own! Currently I have the macro kit for mine, there are also several others such as wide angle and step up shade. Click here for full list of accessories. Not only are there accessories but a whole optic swap system, allowing you to swap between a plastic, glass, double glass, and more! Click here for the full list of optics.

Examples

Here are some shots I have taken with my Lens Baby Muse so far. Note that I have the 2x Glass optic in mine and some photographs have the macro conversions on. Click images to see larger versions.

Taken with Lens Baby Muse, with macro conversion kit using both the +4 and +10.

Using the +4 macro I believe.

I may have used the +4 macro conversion on this but im not sure.

Taken with the Lens Baby Muse.

Conclusion (final thoughts)

If you are passionate about photography and want a to get some really unique shots, then get a Lens Baby. Not only do the base lens’s allow for a unique style of photography and with the accessories available your creativity is nearly unlimited.

Lens Baby Muse Review
Quality
The quality of the parts are strong and sturdy.
Is it worth it?
While some people may say this is more for fun and not worth it, I have made it part of my arsenal.
Accessories
With a ton of accessories available you can shoot some really cool stuff.

Overall
Overall the Lens Baby Muse is great and should be in your camera bag!.

Sorry about the lame star system, if you have any ideas for a rating system leave a comment below.

I doubt you’re actually thinking that and if you are… well it’s self explanatory.

What Do I Need

1. A camera with manual controls
2. Tripod or Gorilla Pod
3. Remote trigger “or on camera timer to allow camera to settle before the photo is taken”
4. A scene with some light “you cant take a picture with no ambient light”

Set Up

Step 1

1. Start by finding a stable surface to set your tripod or Gorilla Pod.
2. Navigate to one of your cameras manual modes on the dial or menu they often look like.
   1. A-Dep = Automatic Depth of Field, camera picks the depth of field.
   2. M = Manual, it gives you full control over the shutter speed and aperture size. “Recommended for those who have an idea of how to do this”
   3. AV = Aperture Priority, when changing you aperture in this mode the shutter speed is automatically set. “Recommended”
   4. TV = Shutter Priority, lets you set the shutter speed while automatically changing the aperture.
   5. P = Programmable Mode, basically an advanced version of the Auto Mode allowing changes to be made to ISO, white balance, drive mode, metering mode, ect…
3. Why manual modes?
   1. Manual modes give you more control over your camera, by allowing you to change the white balance, ISO, shutter speed, aperture size, and other features.

Step 2

1. After setting your camera up set it to either “M” or “AV” I would recommend “AV” especially for those not familiar with manual settings.
2. If you are shooting..
   1. Landscapes/City Scapes use a lower ISO like 200, and an Aperture larger than F16. “if your camera has noise reduction for long exposures I would turn it on”
   2. For people use a larger aperture such as F6 and an ISO of 400.
3. Time to take the shot, either use the built in timer in your camera or a remote trigger.
   1. When using the timer use a long timer to allow the camera to settle after you remove your hands.
   2. When using a remote trigger allow time for camera to settle after handling it.
4. Take the shot, make sure nothing moves the camera because you are more than likely in for a long exposure.

Issues That May Occur

1. Motion Blur
   1. Cars moving “often a wanted effect”
   2. From camera shake “not wanted”
2. High Noise ” long exposures and high ISO make for a lot of noise”

Rule Of Thumb

For Landscapes/Cityscapes

1. If there isn’t enough light in an area for you to see around you chances are your camera wont either.
2. Find a scene where the majority is lit to avoid over exposing/under exposing the image

For Portraits

1. Make sure the subject stays as still as possible for the duration of the exposure.

Examples

Shot on Thanks Giving 2009 Atop a roof in St.Louis. I did this shot handheld, it has a little blur but turned out nice.

Shot on Thanks Giving 2009 Atop a roof in St.Louis

Taken atop a roof in St.Lous Thanks Giving Day 2009. I set a timer on my camera got next to my brother and during the exposure we left thus giving a ghostly image.

I’m newer to photography I have been serious about it for about 6 months and in no way do I consider myself a pro. One day while stumbling around on the web I learned about HDR and it is by far my favorite form of photography. HDR or High Dynamic Range imagery is used to create surreal looking images or realistic images. It does this by accurately representing a wide range of intensity levels found in a real shooting scenarios ranging from shadows to sunlight. If you are do not know how to use your camera to its full capabilities this tutorial may not be for you, but feel free to try.

HDR Explained

What You Need

You will need a digital camera preferably a DSLR with the AEB function, I have a Canon Rebel Xsi and it has everything function you need for HDR. Some higher end point and shoot cameras have the AEB function. Please do note that not all digital cameras have the AEB feature, even some DSLR lack this function. If all you have is a point and shoot camera sorry but you’re out of luck. If you have a DSLR and it doesn’t you’re not entirely out of luck I’ll show you a way to get around it by doing it all manually.  Now as for things you need

1. A DSLR or a point and shoot “if it has AEB”
2. A tripod
3. Photoshop CS2 and over or Photomatix

Please note that if you have an upper end point and shoot camera and it has a manual mode and/or AEB go ahead and follow this tutorial.

The Process

To shoot your own HDR image you will need a camera that has a manual mode and/or AEB “Auto Exposure Bracketing”.

There are two ways im familiar with using manual mode without AEB “not recommended” or using the AEB function.

Without The AEB Function.

1. Set up your shot and get your camera on a tripod.
2. Set your camera to manual mode.
3. Take one picture at exposure.
4. Take one picture “-2” under exposure.
5. Take one picture “+2” over exposure.

With AEB

1. Set up your shot and get your camera on a tripod.
2. Set your camera to manual. “My camera required it to be in manual mode, yours may not.”
3. Find the AEB function and set it so it’s -2, 0, +2 like this…
4. If you have a remote shutter release I recommend using that, or if youre camera can take 3 pictures in a row that works as well.

What You Should Have

Exposure listed from left to right... "0", "-2", "+2", and the final HDR image on the right.

Examples